Friday, 23 September 2016

Snood-along part two: Making your fabric snood

It's sewing time! If you haven't picked a fabric yet, read the recommendations in Part One first and also get some extra inspiration there.

This pinky-red velvet was my test snood, but I didn't take pictures as I went, so now I'm using a paisley patterned velvet/velveteen from an old skirt (it was already cut apart and damaged when I got it) for the tutorial photos.


First we need a pattern. The shape is a sort of half-oval with a base of 30 inches and a height of 18 inches. Mark out those lengths then join them with a curve by hand. Your pattern should look something like this. Honestly I've cut mine straight onto the fabric, but you may wish to draw it on paper first.


Now we begin by sewing the channel for the elastic. Fold the fabric over twice along the curved edge and pin in place. At the curviest sections, you will need to ease the fabric as you go. It will end up gathered, so don't worry too much about the neatness.


Sew close to the inside edge of the fold.


Cut your length of elastic (about 10-15 inches) and sew one end by hand to one end of your elastic channel. Attach a safety pin to the other end of the elastic. Feed the safety pin through the channel until it emerges at the other end.


Pull on the elastic to gather up the fabric. I pretty much gathered it as much as I could, but judge for yourself if you want it a little looser. Once you are happy, sew the elastic in place at the end of the channel and cut off the excess.


Now we will finish the front edge, the straight edge. Depending on your fabric, you could do this by machine or by hand. Fold the edge into a double hem again and sew.


To sew by hand, take a long stitch through the hem followed by a short stitch through the single layer, trying not to let the stitch show on the outside.


The front edge is too long as it is, so it needs to be looped under. It helps if you can pin the snood onto a mannequin head to do this step. Fold about 4 inches under at each end. Pin into place, and sew with a few hand stitches.


And that is that! Your snood is complete. I do like it as is, but it would look great trimmed with a bow or worn with a hat (which is next week's theme and is going to be so much fun!).


This particular fabric gives it more of a sixties or seventies look, doesn't it?


It's a pretty fabulous fabric. I'm just going to stare at this for a while, then I might make one out of a chiffon-type fabric and see how it goes.


Good luck making and I'd love to see what you create!
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Tuesday, 13 September 2016

Snood-along part one: Fabrics and inspiration

Are you ready for the snood-along? Join me in making a 1940s style fabric snood. It's really quick and easy!


This is the snood we'll be making. Today we're going to talk about fabrics, so that you can find something suitable, and look at some period inspiration images too. As you can see, I've made this from velvet, but there are lots of fabric options.


Fabrics


Your fabric snood is all about drape and gathering. So look for a nice drape in your fabric. It can be light and flowing, like chiffon, or heavier, like a jersey or velvet. You will obviously make your choice based on the season and the outfits you plan to pair it with, and the occasions you will wear it to. If you have any clothing you have made yourself, making a snood out of the leftover fabric was common and popular in the 1940s.

Some vintage examples that I found mentioned include a chiffon snood to match a swimsuit, corduroy to match a winter suit of the same, fine silk for 'afternoon wear' in summer, and wool jersey with a chenille pillbox and winter dress.

You will need a 30 inch by 18 inch rectangle, but a little less in either dimension is fine, it will only alter the fullness of the snood (and it is pretty darn full). You will also need matching thread, and about 10-15 inches of elastic (preferably round, but any fairly thin elastic should be fine). There ends up being only about 8 inches of elastic in the snood, but having more makes threading it in a lot easier, and you can then adjust it to a point that you like.

I've based my fabric snoods, and the patterns and instructions I'll be sharing with you, on the instructions from How to Make and Trim Your Own Hats by Vee Powell. I have changed it since then, since I didn't find it to be quite right for me. It was too voluminous, attached to a hat foundation, and didn't gather enough to actually keep my hair in, as well as more-or-less requiring the trim they suggested.

My version is closer to being a fabric version of a crocheted snood, designed to be worn by itself, to hold your hair in, and to be trimmed by you however you want.

Inspiration


A lot of the fabric snoods I found in vintage images were worn with hats, and I've included some of those here, but I tried to focus on those where the snood is the main player.


From Vogue Nov 1 1939

The text for the bottom left image above describes the snood as "capacious as a knitting bag", but it's the top left that is most like my snood in the end. I might have to add that bow!

From the Library of Congress (Flickr)
These two images look to me like they might be scarves tied as snoods although the one below I'm not as sure of, especially because of the bow.

From the Library of Congress (Flickr)

For instructions on how to tie a scarf as a snood, see Casey's tutorial.

I couldn't discover the actual origin of this photo, from Flickr here, found via Chronically Vintage

I fell in love with this snood the moment I saw it, and her whole outfit is fabulous. The snood interests me as it isn't completely closed over the head, but almost so. I wish I could see more angles!

From Vogue Sep 1 1941
One of the noticeable features of some fabric snoods is that they have gathered details at the back, like this Lilly Dache turban snood. Rather than letting the fabric keep it's fullness around the back of the head, it is gathered and tucked to give more shape. Something to try, perhaps.

From the Toodyay Herald 11 Oct 1946

While I can't see exactly what is happening with this snood, this is the matching corduroy number I mentioned above. The photo appearing in a few country newspapers but the quality was pretty similar. It looks glam though!

From a Pond's advertisement in Vogue, Mar 1 1943

Not so glam, but still too cute to leave out. The more functional factory girl snood. Also, what the heck is a lunch-box inspection?

Next week we'll go through the making process, so find your fabrics and get ready! And let me know what you're planning!
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Wednesday, 11 November 2015

Christmas Felt Mistletoe Brooch (or Hat Pin) Tutorial

When making my mistletoe whimsy, I was really enjoying playing with felt mistletoe, so I decided to also make a brooch version that could also be worn as seasonal trim on a hat.
Mistletoe Brooch or hat Pin Tutorial by Tanith Rowan

So let's get into it. You will need:

  • Green felt, approx. 10m by 10cm, can be in smaller scraps (I used 100% wool, 1mm thick)
  • White felt, a small scrap of a few square cm (I used some hand-felted wool from a friend, about 1-2mm thick but varied)
  • Red ribbon, approx. 15cm long (mine is gold-edged, 1cm wide, some kind of cheap craft ribbon from my stash)
  • Matching threads
  • Needle
  • Brooch clasp
  • Sharp scissors

Skills required

  • Hand stitching. You don't need any particular "stitch", you are just going back and forth through the materials to hold them in place, but you need to be able to thread a needle and tie a knot in the end and so on. (Having said all that, you can just use glue if you like!
  • Um...that's it!
Mistletoe Brooch or hat Pin Tutorial by Tanith Rowan

(Let me explain right here about my background colour. I wanted a solid background but not white, so that the white felt would show up. I used this fuchsia pink felt, but its colour showed up totally differently in different photos! Oops!)

Cut out your mistletoe leaves. Here is a picture of mine. I cut freehand based on looking up images of mistletoe. I had to make sure I searched for real mistletoe, since a lot of results were clip art and illustrations, and a lot were also actually holly!

Mistletoe Brooch or hat Pin Tutorial by Tanith Rowan

But if you aren't confident at that, fear not! I turned mine into a pattern for you. Literally. I turned that image into a pattern rather than drawing one. I'm not sure if that's lazy or efficient. Print this out at approximately one quarter of an A4 page. Cut each shape out. I recommend tracing around with an erasable pen as the easiest way, then cutting out. This also allows you to get an efficient layout on your felt.

Mistletoe Brooch or hat Pin Tutorial by Tanith Rowan

Thread your needle with green thread and knot the end.

That big piece is your base. Layer the others on top and sew them on, using a couple of stitches through the top of each one. Add the bigger pieces first, then the smaller ones on top.

Mistletoe Brooch or hat Pin Tutorial by Tanith Rowan

Cut out 8 small circles from the white felt. If they don't look round enough, rub them around between your fingers a bit as well. Place them on your mistletoe in pairs, with each pair located at the top of a pair of leaves. Thread your needle with white thread and knot the end.

Mistletoe Brooch or hat Pin Tutorial by Tanith Rowan

Stitch the berries on using the white thread and a stitch or two per berry. Start and finish the thread again for each pair so you don't have a long stitch between them at the back.

Take your ribbon and cut into a longer and shorter length (about 10cm and 5cm). Cut the longer piece on an angle at each end. Thread your needle with red thread and knot the end.

Mistletoe Brooch or hat Pin Tutorial by Tanith Rowan

Fold the longer piece into two loops and two ends, the loops and ends of the bow.


Stitch these folds in place with a few stitches.

Take the shorter piece and wrap it around the centre of your bow, and stitch that in place at the back of the bow.

Stitch the bow to the top of your bunch of mistletoe.

Mistletoe Brooch or hat Pin Tutorial by Tanith Rowan

Turn your brooch over. Thread your needle again (I used green but it doesn't really matter for this part) and get your brooch clasp. Sew the clasp on to the upper central part of your felt.

Mistletoe Brooch or hat Pin Tutorial by Tanith Rowan

Clip your brooch on! Wear it as a brooch or trim a hat with it. Or a bag! Or...whatever!

Mistletoe Brooch or hat Pin Tutorial by Tanith Rowan

Suggested variations:

  • Use small white beads instead of felt for the berries
  • Add a tiny bell! I collect the ones from Lindt bunnies and so on, so I have them on hand for crafts
  • Use an alligator clip instead and pin straight into your hair
  • Make a cute felt bow instead using thin red felt
  • Change it up completely by cutting holly leaves instead and making red berries



I know that some people like Christmas preparations to wait until closer to the day itself, but I'm not one of them. There have been a lot of Christmas songs playing around here, and it honestly has put me in the best mood! (And it inspires my Christmas creating too)

I hope you enjoyed the tutorial. If you use it, I'd love to see what you make :)
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Wednesday, 25 February 2015

A Guide to Making a Vintage-Style Whimsy

It's Whimsy-making time!

I've decided to call this a guide rather than a tutorial, because although I will be showing you how to make one simple whimsy, I'm trying to provide number of variations and options, so that it is a more flexible and adaptable.


Our whimsy is made up of three parts: the veil, the main decoration, and the secondary decorations (optional). I'm going to take you through making a ribbon bow for the main decoration, and using chenille pompoms as the secondary decorations.

Tools & Materials


  • Sewing Needle
  • Scissors
  • Thread to match veil and decorations
  • Veil (see part 1)
  • Ribbon (or alternatives, see part 2)
  • Little chenille pompoms (or alternatives, see part 3)
  • Comb or clip for attaching the whimsy

Part 1: The veil

The main body of our whimsy is the veil. The picture below shows the kind of veil I'm working with, and here in Australia it's the easiest to find. You can often find it at Spotlight, if your local shop has some millinery supplies (sometimes only temporarily during racing season). For a bigger range, some Aussie millinery supply places are Torb & Reiner, House of Adorn, and Hatters Millinery Supplies. The only overseas supplier I have ordered from is Judith M in the USA, so that's the only one I feel comfortable recommending specifically, but I'm sure many others are excellent.


Other styles of veiling are fine too, whatever you like best! If you can find vintage, the range of veiling types is much broader. They also come in different widths. Mine here is 9 inches wide, which ends up falling to my nose.

I'm using a length of about 75 cm (29.5"). "Hats on Heads: The Art of Creative Millinery" by Mildred Anlezark recommends 1 yard (91cm) . You can get a tape measure and play with lengths around your own face and see what you think will work. I'm going to be gathering it up at the back, so keep in mind that doing so will require extra length.

Gathering at the back is a nice look, and saves having to worry about a neat join.


Cut your veiling length and trim to the diamond points (that's what I'm calling the little rectangles where the diamonds join in the veiling). We are going to join the two short (cut) ends of the veiling piece together. Thread a needle with a length of thread and knot the end. Thread through one of the diamond joins, at the bottom of one edge.


Make sure it is secure and knot more if needed. Line up your two veil ends. Sew through the diamond points, catching them from each veil edge alternately.


(Variation: if not gathering up the back, tie off your thread here. Then start a new thread to gather the top edge.)

Continue stitching around the top edge of the veil. Weave the needle through the top row of diamonds. You can also catch occasional diamond points if you like. When you have reached the back seam again, gently pull your thread to gather the veil. Adjust the gathering with your fingers to help it along.

(You may need (or prefer) to gather as you go, especially if your thread is too short.)


You should now have your basic whimsy crown shape. Tie off the thread in a secure knot.

Part 2: The Main Decoration - Ribbon Bow

There are many many options for the top decoration. I've chosen a ribbon bow. Another simple option would be artificial flowers (one or a few). I know many of you sew, and might have fabric scraps around to use, so another good option is to make a fabric bow. You could use off-cuts and make a whimsy to match an outfit you've made! There are many more possibilities. (See the bringbackthewhimsy Pinterest board or Etsy list for more ideas.)

I'm using a  4cm (1.5") wide velvet ribbon. I like the look of bows with wider ribbon, but use whatever you have. For this ribbon I have cut a longer piece at 47 cm (18.5") long and a shorter piece (the centre piece) at 10 cm (4") long.

Thread a needle and knot the end. Fold your bow as shown. Tie a few stitches to hold it in this shape.


Gather the centre of the bow a little. You can do this with a little gathering stitch or by just pinching the centre up with your fingers and sewing it in place. We aren't getting a total gather here, just a bit of shape.


 Take your bow centre piece. Fold the long edges under if it is too wide (as mine is). Wrap it around the centre of your bow, and stitch in place at the back.


Trim the ends of the ribbon into a diagonal or v-shape. Now stitch the bow to the veil, covering the bunchy gathered centre.


(Variation - For artificial flowers, simply sew in place. (Or glue if you want. I won't judge you. I love glue.))

Part 3: Secondary decorations

I'm using little chenille pompoms, because they are very easy, and also because I bought two massive mixed packs of them when I was getting materials for the Bumblebee whimsy. These packs cost about $8 (I think, I got them on sale at $4), from Spotlight. The pompoms are pretty easy to buy from craft shops and online, where you can also get just one colour.


Variations for the secondary decorations are vast. Anything you can sew or glue onto veiling! Consider the weight, though, because anything too heavy will change the way the whimsy falls. If it looks weighed down, you lose the light, floaty appearance that is so charming. Consider small beads, rhinestones, buttons, tiny flowers or smaller ribbon bows. If you are a crafter, you probably, like me, have boxes of miscellaneous bits that are bound to turn up something good!

Where it isn't ridiculously tedious or impossible, I recommend sewing on decorations like this, because the glue will show through on the inside of the whimsy. Honestly that wouldn't bother me personally, but sewing is certainly a more professional look.

Thread your needle and knot the end. Go through the chenille pompom first, because it will hide the knot in its fluff. Then through a diamond point, stitch a few times, and tie off. Repeat for each pompom.
 

Consider the placement of the decorations. You might want to put the whimsy on and work it out in the mirror, or use a foam head if you have one. You probably don't want anything blocking your eyes or sitting right on the centre of your nose or something.


Finishing Up

To make your whimsy ready to wear, sew on a comb. I've used a plastic one here to demonstrate, because they are so easy to find, but there are also metal combs available. Any style of clip is fine, if you have something you prefer wearing.


If using a comb, I like to run my stitches in a regular pattern like this. It makes me feel neat, which doesn't happen often.


Your whimsy is complete. Wear it with joy!


Also: Bonita has shared a fabulous tutorial for making a floral corsage brooch. I think the felt flowers and felt bow would also be a wonderful way to decorate a whimsy, if you are looking for some other creative options!

Please share anything you make with me. I'd love to see your creations! 

Don't forget to use the #bringbackthewhimsy hashtag on social media. And please just ask in the comments if you have any questions.
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