1940s Millinery Trends - The Pixie Hat

The "Hats of the Past" series now continues and journeys back into the 1940s. Since I've developed a taste recently for pixie hats, why not start there!

The term "pixie hat" first appears (that I can find) in the mid 1930s, and the style comes and goes regularly in to the 1960s. In that time, it takes a variety of forms, and it would be hard to give a strict definition of what a pixie hat is.

The key element is the crown shape, which is head-fitting then comes to a point at the top. The hats are often brimless or have only a small brim, but I have also seen a couple of brimmed styles with a pixie crown. The crown shape varies from very triangular (almost like a "robin hood hat") to very cone-shaped to more rounded. The silhouette is reminiscent of the hats seen on storybook pixies (or fairies, or brownies).

The Hobart Mercury (14 August 1945) describes a range of new hat styles, and includes the following advice: "If you are tall, slender and blonde, you will wear to perfection the pixie cap of acorn leaves, which has an air of irresistible charm, particularly if it is made from velvet leaves the exact colour of oak leaves in Spring."

A Lilly Dache hat in red and white stripes, as featured in the Sydney Morning Herald, 16th Jan 1947

A boom year for pixie hats was 1948. An interview in the Sydney Morning Herald (9th December 1948) with a maker of hat blocks shows a block for making hat in the pixie shape, mentioning a Dior pixie hat in purple velvet.

That same year, Princess Margaret was seen wearing a pixie hat of blue velvet with a small brim, worn on the back of the head, a look that received a lot of press in Australia.

The West Australian (15th March 1949) reported on a Perth display of Paris and London hats, saying that "One of the main features of the collection was the new Pixie Crown. The crown is drawn to a peak; in some cases it is a plain little crown and in others the material is swirled or twisted to the peak."

Elinor Florence has sent me this photo of a gorgeous hat her grandmother owned. We debated whether this counts as a pixie hat, but I say, why not? Although it has a more rounded crown, it achieves a point and pixie-like silhouette from the little pyramid added to the top with its pearl buttons and metal studs. Isn't it charming? That tassel!

 
Elinor's name might be familiar to some of you as the author of "Bird's Eye View", and for her blog Wartime Wednesdays. I recently finished reading "Bird's Eye View", which is about a young Canadian girl serving as a photographic interpreter in WWII, and I really enjoyed it! The main character shares her family name with one branch of my family tree, so I guess I bought the book largely because of that. I'm not actually a great reader, or a history buff (apart from hats), and I'm happy to report that I found it fascinating and engaging, and I found Rose to be really likeable character. You can find information about the book on Elinor's website.

I'm not sure a pixie hat would suit me, but I'd love to try! I think I'd go for a dark blue felt in a simple little round-topped cone shape.

How about you? Would you wear a pixie hat? Let me know in the comments!

1940s Story "The Pixie Hat"

Remember those lovely pixie hats that Bette Davis was wearing in Dark Victory? In the midst of my 1940s hat research (posts coming soon!), I stumbled on a short story entitled "The Pixie Hat" so I had to share it with you all!

It was in the Australian Women's Weekly (I'm a bit predictable, I know), in the 6th April 1940 edition.

"A rapier of sunlight pierced the curtains of Anne Robson's room and pricked her into wakefulness."

Our hat-loving hero, Anne, has been skipping lunch and walking to work in order to save for the Pixie Hat she has been lusting after in the window. "For Anne belonged to that gallant regiment of women who prefer to be hungry than shabby." (I can't say that I share this philosophy with Anne.)

We only get bits and pieces of description of the hat, but I think it is shown in this illustration on the left. It is red, a "pixie affair with a stumped tail", and costs three guineas. The gentleman of the piece describes it as "a silly queer toadstool affair with a diddly-what on top of it."

You can read the full short story, starting on this page.

I'm really warming to pixie hats. How about you?

Another 1950s Photoshoot: My Creations (Part Two): Flowers and Leaves!

This is finally the last of the photos from my wonderful photoshoot with my friend and gracious model Ruanne! I strung that out pretty well, I think.

First up is a little hat of leaves. The foundation is a wire frame wrapped in ribbon. I bought a few vintage wire-frame hat bases earlier this year, but this one I made myself, using the vintage ones as a guide for how to shape my wire.

The leaves are velvet, from two sets that I have been given as gifts. I believe they are vintage (or at least some level of not-new) but I don't really know much about them. I wanted to keep this one clean and simple, so along with the leaves it only has the red veiling and a small brown velvet ribbon bow.

This hat is so light and so comfortable to wear, and the wire can of course be adjusted so that it fits various head sizes. The leaves strike me as grape-vine-like, which, along with the red and brown, give it a very autumnal feel. So that's for you Northern-hemisphere types to enjoy. Down here, I think we need something more suited to Spring.

That will do nicely. Not only very Spring-like, but also distinctly Australian! In 1954, Aage Thaarup (milliner to the Queen) showed a range of hats inspired by the Royal Tour, which included an Australian-inspired hat "made of yellow organza and trimmed with wattle (Australia's national flower)". After trying out a few different colours of trim on this pink velvet half hat, I saw the artificial wattle and had to try it. If it's good enough for Aage Thaarup it's good enough for me. (I'm going to do a post about him at some stage. I took an interest after being given a book by him, and he features in a number of other British Pathe videos.)

I know that I'm often too timid with colour, so I love this bold contrast. Plus, it's just so bright and happy! It makes me want to go on bush picnics or throw an inappropriately glamorous barbeque!

Which is speaking to you more? Spring or Autumn?

Other posts from this day of photos were My Creations (Part One), My Genuine Vintage Collection (Part One) and (Part Two), and 1950s Hat Patterns.

Millinery Trends of 1958-1959

My last Millinery Trends for the 1950s!

The Australian Women's Weekly, 26 March 1958

The March 26th issue of AWW has a special on Paris hats. After the small hat focus in 52-54 and the shift to larger proportioned hats in 56-67, there seems to be a healthy mix in fashion in 1958.

The Australian Women's Weekly, 26 March 1958

This fairly small hat, covered in white flowers, is from Guy Laroche. That shape and the total flower coverage I'm starting to see as the definition of late 50s and early 60s hats, but it has a soft elegant feel that links it firmly to 50s style.

The Australian Women's Weekly, 26 March 1958

Here we get a bit more out there with Dior, with this red basketwork hat. In a coolie-hat shape but with such a rough and open texture. I love how this hat looks, but I'm not sure how well it would translate to real-life wearing. If you had the confidence, it would be a show-stopper. The article also reports that all shades of red will be big for Spring and Summer in 1958.

The Australian Women's Weekly, 26 March 1958

If you are after something more practical, how timeless is this hat? I could comfortably wear this to any manner of picnic, barbeque or pool party, or out to the beach or around the garden! I'm not sure I'm a "matched to my ensemble" kind of gal, but I know it could be a stunning look that way.

The Australian Women's Weekly, 26 March 1958

As well as the current Northern hemisphere Spring trends, the issue looks at styles suitable for Autumn, mostly evening styles, with lots of turbans and whimsies. If you are after a project, keep an eye out for these ring-style bases. I bought a box of vintage hats (I'll be showing you later, don't worry) to fix up, and it included a number of this style, but without the trims. I think they'd be the kind of thing you could pick up cheaply, and then adding and veil and flower would be very easy!

The Australian Women's Weekly, 26 March 1958

Two more glamorous evening looks for Autumn. For the most part, we keep seeing small and simple styles for late-day and evening, leaving the big and bright statement hats for day.

The Australian Women's Weekly, 9 July 1958

This Orcel hat, for our "mid-season" wardrobe is described as a "mob cap". If you said "a mob cap made of veil" I don't think anyone would be very enticed by that description, but the picture tells a very different story. I adore this one!

Plus I stand behind this quote from the article:

"You can have almost any kind of hat - a cloche, turban, sailor, beret, tall-crowned fez - but you must have a hat."

The Australian Women's Weekly, 17 September 1958

I had to share this image from a Kayser commercial. The theme is the "One-Color Look" that you can achieve with "nylons, slips, panties and gloves" to match the rest of your outfit. I might change my mind on super-matchy outfits!

The Australian Women's Weekly, 12 November 1958

I had to include these for their entertainment value. Made from real flowers, leaves, fruits and vegetables and shown at the Red Cross Chelsea Flower Show, they still show suuch distinctive 1950s style! The hat on the left is made from the leaves and berries of a custard apple tree, and sprayed with hair lacquer. On the right is a sparterie base covered with shallot and brussel sprout leaves and trimmed with a range of small veggies.

The Australian Women's Weekly, 4 March 1959

The Autumn Fashion Report declares 1959 to be "The year of the colored suit", with models in red, pink, blue, brown and purple. It certainly doesn't look set to be "the year of the hat" with millinery barely rating a mention, and absent from a number of outfits. Although some beautiful hats are shown, they are not described in the captions.

The Australian Women's Weekly, 1 April 1959

In April, however, we are loving our milliners again, with a cute little article on a young Mr Smith leaving London to become head milliner at Lanvin. While winning over top clients, he keeps doing his bit in the workroom when required and remains a shy young man. Awwww.

And there is no question that hats are still an important fashion etiquette issue. The July 15 issue of AWW reports that the first female M.P. in the South Australian Legislative Assembly, Mrs. Wilfred Steele, had a big decision to make in setting the "Hat or no hat" precedent. In the end she wore a small, closely-fitted turban that matched the blue in her suit.

Then, as now, Melbourne Cup time brings out the hat-lover in many Australian women who otherwise never go near a hat, but I've left out the racing fashion reports to cover at another time.

I'm nearing the end of my 1950s focus, with just a couple more of my hats to show you! Of course I'll be back to the 1950s in the future, including some milliner-spotlights I've been planning for a long time. I'll be picking up the Hats of the Past series early next year with the 1940s!

I'd love to hear what you love most about 1940s hats so I can make sure I explore the best bits! Do you have a favourite 1940s style or designer?

Another 1950s Photoshoot: My Genuine Vintage Collection (Part Two)

It's time for part two of my genuine vintage 1950s hat collection. If you missed part one, you can find it here.

This little pillbox and the pink hat below were among my earlier buys, just two I ran across on ebay for a cheap price. Even though this pillbox could also be 1960s, I'm inclined to think fifties because of its small size.

I love the colour and fabric, and the simple details and trim.

This one is also adorably simple.

 

A basic wired buckram frame that sits comfortably on the head, decorated with fabric swirl flowers.

Along with the hat, my frilly umbrella and "honeymoon case" make great accessories to Ruanne's gorgeous vintage pale purple dress. I love having models that come with their own wardrobe (and do their own hair and makeup!).

This one is actually one of the first vintage ladies hats I ever bought. (I have to say ladies, because I think my first purchases were some men's military hats.) It came from a local vintage and consignment fashion shop that has unfortunately since closed.

My mother and I always called this my "Jackie O" hat, but my husband calls it the "Brain" hat. Also I used to wear it more with the bow at the back (less girly!) but I saw a 1950s magazine piece on hats almost exactly like this, with the bow at the front. The most frustrating part of this discovery is that I can no longer relocate that article. I'm 90% confident I didn't dream it.

We started to have a lot of fun with props and different poses in this photoshoot, and I think this last one is my favourite!

This is the last of the vintage hats from this photoshoot, but there is still one more set of my own creations. Plus, I've since acquired some more vintage hats, so another photoshoot will have to be done!

Hat Patterns from the 1950s

While researching vintage hat styles in The Australian Women's Weekly, I also found quite a few sets of patterns and instructions for making some simpler hat styles. I've attempted one of them, and I want to share it here with you today.

The Australian Women's Weekly, 9 June 1954

It is described as a Butterfly Cap for teenagers for late-day or later. I found the teenage label unusual, because the woman in the article photo looks very sophisticated and grown-up to me. Once I made it myself, however, I found it looking much more youthful.

I think the hair and outfit styling will have a large impact on whether this little hat looks young and playful or elegant and sophisticated.

You can find the pattern and instructions for The Butterfly Cap in the 9th of June issue of Australian Women's Weekly, on page 30, which you can access here.

Like most vintage patterns, especially free ones squeezed into a small magazine section, the instructions are sparse and assume you can fill in the gaps. On the other hand, it's quite a simple one, so you would have a hard time going too wrong.

Tips about Materials:

• Velvet or velveteen. (I used velvet from a second-hand skirt. The thickness of the fabric helps give the shape volume and hide stitches.)
• Sparterie (It's hard to get your hands on this vintage millinery material these days, but there are plenty of substitutes. I used what we tend to call buckram or leno or 20/20. Any stiff-but-shapable millinery foundation material or stiff interfacing should do fine.)
• Millinery wire
• Thread and needles
• Hair comb (Not called for in the original instructions, but mine didn't like to stay in place without. I added a plastic hair comb, cut into 3 pieces and stitched onto the inside. My advice - make the cap as instructed, try it on, shape the wire, and if more is required, try a comb.)

Construction Tips:

• The good thing about this design is that it's nice and clear what look you are aiming for! If necessary, fudge it, as long as it keeps looking like a bow!
• Experiment with the final shaping. Mine sits out like a more puffy bow, rather than sitting flatter like the magazine example. Both work fine, so play around to find the look you want.

The best thing about this pattern is that it "is guaranteed to highlight your hair and make you look prettier".

There are lots of other patterns and instructions for hats (and other accessories) in the pages of Women's Weekly, and even some newspapers. Here are some others from the 1950s that I like the look of:

• Fabric Sun Hat (1955) 
• Scarf Hat for "any teenager who wants a hair cover-up that doesn't look like a scarf yet has its virtues" (1954)
• "Casual cap with some carefully designed shapelessness" (1953)
• A plain pillbox and a "bed-of-violets" pillbox (1951)
• A "Quaker Bonnet" for spring (1950)
• Wide-brimmed beach hat (essentially just a elliptical cone with straps - but it looks nice in the photo! (1954)
• Velvet beret, as worn by Gene Tierney (1954)
• Two-coloured cloche and braided toque (1952)
• "High-fashion scarf hat" (1953). I love this one!

And there are so many more. I found some of these while searching again for ones I had previously found!

What do you think of The Butterfly Cap and the other hat patterns? Anything take your fancy?

I'd love to hear if you try any of these, or of any other free patterns you recommend.

1950s pompoms, faux fur, and a bit of cheating

Continuing on with the recent photo shoot images, today I want to show you two of my own 1950s-inspired designs that my friend Ruanne modelled for me that day. (I'll be getting back to my genuine vintage collection later.) These are a couple of very wintery models, appropriate as we say goodbye to winter (although there is still time for more - that snow in October will not quickly be forgotten) and in the other hemisphere Autumn is beginning and maybe some are looking forward to cool-weather fashions.

You may remember a couple of fashion illustrations in my 1952-1954 hat fashion trends post that featured pompoms. Very shortly after posting that, I had a go at a hat inspired by these shapes.

After the fun I had starting to re-use my old favourite red coat, I decided it was time to retire my white/cream coat as well. Some bits were not so white anymore, even after cleaning.

Between some of the whiter parts of the coat fabric, a couple of its buttons, and a bit of lovely white faux fur I had left over from cossack-hat-making, and the crown from an old synthetic straw hat (that's one lazy and quick way to get a crown to start draping on), I put together this homage to the pompom hats of the 1950s.

Despite being a very wintery hat, it managed to pair well with some very colourful dresses on an unusually sunny and warm winter day.

I wore it myself the other day to the Norman Lindsay gallery with my grandmother for an exhibition of World War I photographs. It was fun and cute hat to wear out and about. You can't help but feel cute with a pompom, I think.

This second hat is where the cheating comes in.

I'll start at the beginning. I love the big flat or slightly rounded fifties hats trimmed with fur or feathers that hang like a fringe over the wearer's face. One example, although from the sixties, is the fabulous hat from the first scene with Deborah Kerr in Marriage on the Rocks, which I talked about here.

I found a lovely big round wooden bowl for a few dollars at an op-shop, and I knew it would be a great shape to block this type of hat on. I also found the fabrics I needed by op-shopping - a long-pile fur from a vest (oh yes indeed, it was really something!) and a long velvet skirt.

I had one thing I wasn't sure of though. I didn't know how best to shape this hat, on the underside. How would it actually be worn? I debated a variety of ideas, and in the end just made the thing and hoped for the best.

This turned out to be not such a great idea. Being flat on top, it is almost impossible to wear!

So why did I continue and take it to the photoshoot?

I guess it is a test-of-concept. I wanted to know if it would be worth altering or re-making this hat, and how best to do so, by seeing it in action, with the right outfit, model, makeup etc. I could see how it looked at different angles.

A hat often doesn't show its true strength and beauty without being worn. As tricky as it was to play around with this awkward hat on the day, it was worth it.

Although it is always going to be a statement piece, I love some of these photos so much, that I believe I can make the hat work after all. And if I can't, I got some beautiful images from it anyway!

What do you think? Do you think the fur hat is worth an attempt at redemption? Would you ever actually wear it?

And how desperately do you want a hat with a pompom? It's ok, you can admit it.

Millinery Trends of 1956-1957

I'm back with more 1950s millinery fashion research, courtesy of the pages of the Australian Women's Weekly. I do look at other digitised Australian publications, but, although they often have good written trend reports, the picture quality is usually too poor to share.

Also, this instalment should have been from 1955-1957, but apparently I didn't like anything much in the 1955 issues!

So we start on the 25th of January, 1956, with some advice on "When to wear a hat" from Betty Kemp, the AWW's fashion advice columnist.

"A Hat should be worn to the races, to a formal lunch, and to any afternoon or after-five function in a public place."

and

"It is much better to have several hats to suit changing moods than one expensive all-purpose model."

The Australian Women's Weekly, 1st Feb 1956

In the previous instalment covering hat fashions 1952-1954, it was all about small hats. By 1956, the tables are turning. This poppy-red hat is representing the new "heavy" autumn look.

The Australian Women's Weekly, 1st Feb 1956

This feathered cocktail hat from Madame Vernier is just too delicious not to share!

The Australian Women's Weekly, 1st Feb 1956

At this stage of the 1950s we are already starting to see hat shapes that I have long associated with the 1960s - flowerpot and "upside-down-basin" shapes. And also vibrant colours like yellows and oranges appearing a lot. The caption states: "New millinery note for next winter: Little hats have bigger proportions."

The Australian Women's Weekly, 29th Feb 1956

Is anyone else seeing a millinery Charlie's Angels here?

This photo accompanies an article about "The New Bulky Hat."

"Hats have reached a turning point in fashion. After years of shrinking, they have suddenly blossomed into bulky importance. The advantages are seen quickly. For one thing, a deep or wide brim makes the face beneath it look deliciously feminine or piquant. It also gives eyes an extra look of allure. And, finally, bulk is the logical counter-balance of a slender silhouette - and a real flatterer to bared or fur-covered shoulders."

So as our tiny half hats were paired with cocktail dresses with large flaring skirts, thinner lines of dress bring with them a trend for bigger hats to provide a contrast.

The Australian Women's Weekly, 1st August, 1956

"There is no disagreement on two fashion items: the slender super-elegant line and the bulky hat.", states the 1st of August edition.

In the same issue, Betty Kemp's Dress Sense column gives the following advice:

"I am planning a spring ensemble in a floral material consisting of a frock and jacket, and would like your advice about the hat to wear with it." 
"I suggest a hat of self fabric. This matching-hat-to-complete-the-costume look is very new in Paris spring fashions."

The Australian Women's Weekly, 24th October, 1956

Coming into the spring of 1956, hats are still large, but now are also "Laden with flowers and extravagant with color, the hats are designed to wear above an understated dark day dress, a late-day, or little dinner dress."

The Australian Women's Weekly, 27th February, 1957

I think we know by now that I love fur hats. This black fur hat and muff paired with a red plaid is by Jacques Fath, and is pretty much to die for!

Back in Autumn fashions in 1957, fur is everywhere and in every shape.

"The kind of fashion era coming up is full of clothes for the fashion adventuress, some startling enough to knock the sunglasses off your nose right now. It is also a romantic feminine season in which ethereal chiffon, white fur, black velvet all help to create the clinging-vine illusion."

The Australian Women's Weekly, 27th February, 1957

"Every woman will be fascinated, too, by autumn millinery. Hats this season are quite a power in fashion..."

As well as fur, turbans are mentioned, and we are told to expect a lot of jewels, feathers and veils in hat trimming.

The Australian Women's Weekly, 20th March, 1957

In March, 1957, we see evening headdresses from Paris (and they are quick to point out that this is not a "hat") that look to me like the classic whimsy, and may be the start of their fashion introduction. This one is just roses and veiling. I think that whimsy styles reached greater fashion heights (if not physical heights) later, based on the examples I've seen, but this is still an elegant look if you have the right outfit to match it with.

The Australian Women's Weekly, 20th March, 1957

I wanted to share this photo particularly because I feel this would be such an easy look to recreate. It is an "After 6 p.m." look, and described as simply a chignon up-do decorated with velvet ribbon and a drop-pearl-and-diamond ornament. Maybe something to try with some spare ribbon and a nice brooch or elaborate pendant?

The Australian Women's Weekly, 10th July, 1957

The July 10th issue of AWW is all about Turbans. Ok not really, but this stunner features on the cover, and the fashion feature article shows an immense range of turban shapes and styles, in all kinds of materials, including self-fabric to match the dress. Again, we're seeing the exaggerated heights that we go on to see in the 1960s begin their journey here.

I hope you enjoyed this continuation of our ramble through the hat fashion trends of the 1950s. Which styles are your favourites here? And do you prefer the bulky hats of 1956-57 or the small caps of earlier in the decade?

As we speak, I'm being kicked from the inside to remind me to tell you all that I'm starting to gear up for maternity leave. I'm working hard on preparing blog posts to continue throughout, but it does mean that some of my recent work will be shown to you in a very drawn-out manner, as I try to make it last until I start up making again next year (I hope). I'm still making things now, but I'll be slowing down, and probably stopping at the end of September, for a break of at least 4 months. Don't worry though, the Travelling Hat project should be out in the world by then, and I still have lots of other things to share!